Compactor Technology, Inc


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Preventative Maintenance

Safety & Operational Training

FAQ

» All service or repair procedures described below should be performed by authorized, fully trained personnel. Any service or repairs that go beyond the scope of the information below should be performed by factory authorized personnel only. If you need further assistance, please contact C-Tec.

» Be sure to have available the compactor serial number, installation date, and electrical schematic number when contacting us

Troubleshooting Shortcuts

My compactor unit will not start
My compactor will not continue running when start button is released
The motor is running the the ram is not moving normally
My compactor will not move in reverse
My pump is making a gravel sounding noise
My pump shaft seal is leaking
My compactor is producing excessive heat
My compactor is experiencing excessive wear & tear
My compactor is experiencing erratic operation
My compactor's overload trips frequently

Problem

Cause

Solution

UNIT WILL NOT START

1) No electrical power to unit
1) No electrical power to unit
2) No electrical power to control circuit



3) No electrical power to motor

1A. Turn on main disconnect.

1B. Replace fuses or reset breakers.

2A. Check primary and secondary sides of transformer.

2B. Check for correct voltage. Check control fuses.

2C. Check stop button.

2D. Check start button to be sure contact closes when depressed.

3A. Check heater resets.

UNIT WILL NOT CONTINUE RUNNING WHEN START BUTTON IS RELEASED

1) Motor starter is in-operative
2) Motor starter auxiliary are inoperative
3) Secondary contact on start button is inoperative
3) Secondary contact on start button is inoperative

1A. Check motor starter coil & wiring.

2A. Check motor starter and wiring.

3A. Check contact, wired black and orange, to be sure it is operating properly.

3B. Check wiring.

MOTOR RUNS BUT RAM DOES NOT MOVE NORMALLY

1) Insufficient oil in reservoir
2) Low relief pressure


3) Oil leakage in cylinder


4) Defective pump
5) Oil leakage from hose fittings
6) Low voltage
7) Pump may be driven in the wrong direction of rotation
8) Shaft broken, or shaft key sheared
9) Intake pipe from reservoir blocked, or oil viscosity too heavy to prime
10) Intake air leaks (foam in oil or sounds like gravel in pump)
11) Units shift slowly
12) Valve response sluggish
12) Valve response sluggish
13) Loose hub coupling

1A. Fill reservoir with oil.

2A. Check relief pressure (refer to PROCEDURES-HYDRAULIC PRESSURE CHECK and PRESSURE SETTINGS for correct pressure.

2B. Clean orifice in relief valve and reset pressure.

2C. Check 'O" rings on relief valve for damage or leakage.

3A. Check cylinder for bypassing.

3B. Replace seal kit, inspect rod and cylinder tube for scoring or nicks.

3C. Replace cylinder.

4A. Replace pump.

5A. Tighten hose fittings.

6A. Check voltage.

7A. Stop immediately to prevent seizure. Check direction of drive rotation (proper rotation direction is indicated by arrow on motor).

8A. Visually inspect motor and pump shaft and hub couplings for damage. Replace if necessary.

9A. Drain system. Add clean fluid of proper viscosity and specifications. Filter as recommended. Check system filter for cleanliness.

10A. Check intake connections. Tighten securely.

11A. Flow control valve (restrictor) clogged, remove and clean orifice.

12A. Contaminated oil-drain and flush system.

12B. Inadequate voltage, check voltage, check coil.

13A. Tighten set screws on hub coupling halves.

UNIT WILL NOT REVERSE

1) Solenoid valve is in-operative

1A. Check coil in solenoid valve.

PUMP MAKES GRAVEL SOUNDING NOISE

1) Partly clogged intake strainer or restricted intake pipe
2) Defective bearing
3) Air leak at pump intake pipe joints

1A. Pump must receive intake fluid freely or cavitations result. Drain system, clean intake pipe and clean or replace strainer.

2A. Replace pump.

3A. Tighten joints as required.

PUMP SHAFT SEAL LEAKING

1) Seal worn or damaged

1A. Replace seals or pump.

EXCESSIVE HEAT

1) Continuous running


2) Undersized hydraulic lines
3) High ambient temperature in relation to oil temperature
4) Excessive system leakage

1A. When over 140 degrees F or hot in comparison with circuit lines, pump should be shut down immediately. Before restarting, insure that fluid cooling capacity is adequate to remove system generated heat.

1B. Install oil cooler (air or water type).

1C. Install oil temperature shut down switch.

2A. Replace with larger hydraulic lines.

3A. Use lower viscosity oil.

4A. Check system for bypassing or leaks.

RAPID WEAR & TEAR

1) Abrasive matter in the hydraulic oil being circulated through pump

2) Viscosity of oil too low at working conditions
3) Pressure too high
4) Air recirculation causing pump noise
4) Air recirculation causing pump noise

1A. Install adequate filter or clean.

1B. Replace oil more often and clean tank.

2A. Replace oil with factory recommended.

3A. Reduce pump pressures to factory specifications.

4A. Tighten all fittings.

4A. Check system for bypassing or leaks.

ERRATIC OPERATION

1) Valve sticking or binding
2) Viscosity of oil too high
3) Air in system
4) Low oil
5) Low voltage

1A. Disassemble & clean as necessary.

2A. Change oil to factory recommended viscosity.

3A. Check for leaks, tighten fittings.

4A. Fill reservoir with oil.

5A. Check primary & secondary sides of transformer for correct voltage.

OVERLOAD TRIPS FREQUENTLY

1A. Check for correct voltage (incoming power).

1B. Check fuses or breakers at disconnect.

1C. Check heater elements to be sure they are tight.

1D. Check wiring from starter to motor to make sure all connections are tight.

1E. Check motor leads to be sure all connections are tight surges or voltage.

NOTE. Excessive overload tripping and/or motor or coil failures may occur if voltage surges or voltage drops are frequent in your area. This circumstance can be remedied by the installation of phase protectors.

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